When evenly cooked through, drain and leave until you are able to just handle them, then peel whilst still warm.To make the dressing, put the mustard, vinegar, seasoning and a couple of tablespoons of water in a blender or food processor. Note: you will have more than enough dressing, but it keeps very well in a screw-top jar in the fridge for several days, if not longer.Salade Nicoise, serves 4This is the way I like it. Others can go and run and jump.For the dressing:2 tbsp red wine vinegarsalt and pepper3-4 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped175ml/6fl oz Provencal extra virgin olive oil, and deeply fruity4 medium eggs, as fresh as possible1 round or little gem lettuce (optional)chervil sprigs, flat leaf parsley, a few torn basil leaves, rocket, etcone heart of celery, just the tender inner stalks, sliced into stripsa large handful of green beans, topped and tailed, boiled in well salted water, refreshed and drainedabout 4 tbsp broad beans, shelled and given the same treatment as the green beans12 small new potatoes, scraped, boiled and then cut in half, and kept warm in their cooking water until ready for use1 heaped tbsp capers4 ripe tomatoes, skinned and quartered16 small black olives; the tiny Nicoise are best6 small spring onions, trimmed and thinly slicedanchovies, fat and pink, preferably ones that have been packed in olive oil, allow 5 (or more) per personMake the dressing by whisking together the vinegar, seasoning and garlic in a bowl. Slice (or halve) the potatoes into a warm bowl, sprinkle over the chives and mix in enough of the dressing to coat the potatoes well Pile into a serving dish and eat without delay. Process until smooth and then start adding the oil in a thin stream, as in the green bean recipe – and to the same consistency. Drizzle with a little of the extra olive oil.Potato salad, serves 4700g/l12lb waxy potatoes (la ratte or pink fir apple are ideal) un-peeleddressing:2 tbsp smooth Dijon mustard2 tbsp red wine vinegarsalt and peppera little lukewarm water325ml/12fl oz peanut or groundnut oil2 tbsp chopped chivesPut the potatoes to simmer (or steam) in salted water.

Divide the beans on to 4 individual plates and loosely arrange into piles. Spoon over the dressing, sprinkle over the shallots and decorate with the remaining anchovies. It is important that the fennel is extremely fresh, with the central parts good and white.8 small, very fresh bulbs of fennel, trimmed and neatly quartered20 button onions, topped, tailed and peeledsalt and pepperjuice of I small lemon1 scant tbsp Pernod or Ricard200ml/7fl oz dry white wine1 tsp fennel seeds, dry-roasted in a small frying pan until fragrant2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced2-3 sprigs of thyme2 bay leaves6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil1 tbsp chopped parsleyPut the fennel and onions in a large pot so that they are almost in a single layer Season and sprinkle over the lemon juice and Pernod. With the motor still running, add the oils in a thin stream until the dressing is homogenous and creamy. If it has become too thick, thin with a little more warm water.Fill a large pan with salted water and bring to a rolling boil. Drop in the beans and cook briskly for 3-4 minutes or until tender – they should not, however, squeak when you eat them. Drain and then immediately refresh under very cold running water Drain again and pat dry with a tea-towel.

Blend the mustard, vinegar, garlic, water, pepper and 4 of the anchovy fillets until smooth in a food processor or liquidiser. Allow to cool to room temperature, before tasting the juices to ascertain a correct seasoning. Spoon into a serving dish and sprinkle over the parsley.Salad of green beans with anchovies, serves 41 tbsp smooth Dijon mustard1 tbsp red wine vinegar12 clove garlic, well crushed4 tbsp warm water pepper150ml/ 14pint peanut oil150ml/ 14pint virgin olive oil12 anchovy fillets450g/1lb extra fine French green beans, topped and tailed1 large shallot, very finely choppeda little extra virgin olive oilFirst make the dressing. Stir together briefly, once it has come to a simmer and cook very gently, covered, for about 45 minutes.By this time, the vegetables will be very soft and deeply flavoured. Add the white wine, fennel seeds, garlic, herbs and oil and put on to a low light to cook. Add back the courgettes for a moment or two and toss around with the mint Season with black pepper and tip back into the bowl. Serve at room temperature.Fennel a la Grecque, serves 4This is particularly good as an accompaniment to grilled fish, but is equally nice eaten all on its own as a vegetable dish or first course.