For a close-up of some of the finest medieval landmarks, start at St Margaret’s Church in Walmgate, now the National Centre for Early Music, and head for the city centre Turn left at Pavement into the narrow Shambles. The highlight is the hotel’s renowned Ivy Restaurant, offering “New British Cuisine”. Main courses include roast duckling with gooseberry relish, vanilla mash and lime juice (£19.50) and wild salmon with horseradish dauphinoise, tomato confit and fine asparagus (£17). Four million visitors a year are drawn by its first-class amenities and many layers of history. The Roman 9th Legion got there first (in AD71), building baths, temples, amphitheatres and a forum. The city thrived under the Saxons, until the Vikings sailed up the River Ouse in their longboats in 866 and claimed it as their own Much bloodshed ensued as they sought to keep it that way. When the Normans brought political stability to England exactly 200 years later, York’s golden period began – as port, trading centre and religious site.

York Minster, a truly stupendous construction towering over the well-preserved mediaeval streets and lanes, was begun in 1220 and took 252 years to build, adorned by the largest collection of mediaeval stained glass in Britain. By-passed by the Industrial Revolution, York was given a new lease of life by the train. A direct line to London was completed in 1841 and one of Britain’s finest stations was constructed. York’s pivotal role as a railway centre is commemorated at the outstanding National Railway Museum (see below), one of several must-see venues that bring the city’s colourful story to life.OLD-SCHOOL COMFORT OR URBAN COOL?Once a Regency townhouse, the Grange Hotel at 1 Clifton (01904 644744; ) combines the chic with the unashamedly chintzy.

Although its commercial importance has dramatically declined since the Middle Ages, when it was the second city in England, it’s still number two to London as a tourist attraction. Open 12-3pm and on Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday for pre-arranged groups via the island’s hotels. ANCIENT AND MODERN

ANCIENT AND MODERN
“The history of York is the history of England,” said George VI. Here, a small hole in the ground spits out steam and flames when provoked by the park attendants.THE BILLAround £40 for a boozy lunch for two El Diablo, Monta?del Fuego, Lanzarote (00 34 928 840 057). Prices start from £1,249 per person, including flights, all accommodation and entertainment on board ship.From July to December, the Celebrity cruise ship Century offers nine-night fly/cruises from Miami or Fort Lauderdale. Prices start at £919 per person, including flights, all accommodation and entertainment on board ship.. If your idea of eating in Lanzarote involves a plate of beef olives from a hotel buffet and “Guantanamera” on repeat play on the stereo, it’s time to throw out the stereotypes.